Wines £20 to £30

Soave's reputation was destroyed by industrial bottlings in the 1970s, and growers like this have spent forty years rebuilding it.

Valpolicella Superiore is the step above the everyday version — riper fruit, longer ageing, and no shortcuts.

Riserva means longer ageing and stricter selection.

Grenache rose from northern Greece, made in a pale Provencal register but with more substance.

Lalande sits directly across the stream from Pomerol, on similar ground, at a fraction of the price its neighbour commands.

The house's entry point, and the clearest demonstration that traditional Rioja need not be expensive.

Matelica is the smaller, higher, cooler of Verdicchio's two zones, and its wines are tauter than the better-known Castelli di Jesi.

A blend built around Posip from the same Dalmatian producer, lighter and more immediate.

Falanghina is an ancient Campanian grape, possibly grown in Roman times, revived over the past thirty years.

Collioure sits on the Mediterranean at the Spanish border, on schist terraces so steep they are worked by hand.

Alto Adige is Alpine Italy, where German is spoken and the whites are among the country's most precise.

Picpoul means lip-stinger, which tells you what the grape does.

A Calabrian grape so rare it was close to extinction, from the oldest working winery in the region.

Moulin-a-Vent is the Beaujolais cru that ages, and its Gamay develops in a direction that fools people into guessing Pinot Noir.

The same estate's everyday bottling from slightly lower ground.

The same family's low-intervention bottling — Pet-Nat, bottled before fermentation finishes so it keeps its own yeast and fizz.

A near-extinct Thessalian grape revived in the last two decades, peppery and medium-bodied.

The entry point into Bolgheri from an estate whose senior wine sits at nearly a hundred pounds.

The Terroir Hunter range exists to bottle specific sites rather than blend across Chile's vast valleys, which is what most large producers do.

Saint Clair bottle individual blocks separately rather than blending the region into one wine, which is unusual here.

Bordeaux varieties on the Tuscan coast, in the style that made the region's international reputation.

Eden Valley is one of Australia's premier cool-climate regions, high and rugged, and produces Chardonnay with far more tension than the w...

Carmenere was a Bordeaux grape thought extinct after phylloxera, rediscovered in Chile in 1994 having been mistaken for Merlot for over a century.

Provence is overwhelmingly rose country, and its whites are made in tiny quantities.