How it tastes
Brioche, hazelnut and tobacco from two decades on the lees, layered over minerality and a deep core of fruit. Silky and concentrated on the palate with great length, and bone dry — no dosage at all, and 0.9 g/l of residual sugar. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The producer
Duval-Leroy was founded in 1859 when the Duval and Leroy families joined forces, and it remains one of the last independent, family-owned houses in Champagne, now in its sixth generation. Carol Duval-Leroy led it for more than thirty years from 1991 and was the first and only woman to be appointed president of the Association Viticole Champenoise; her sons Julien, Charles and Louis have since taken it on. The house is based at Vertus in the Côte des Blancs, HVE3 certified across a 200-hectare estate of which 40% is Premier and Grand Cru. This cuvée is made only in exceptional years, from the Chardonnay Grand Crus of Oger, Cramant and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and the Pinot Noir Grand Cru of Ambonnay. The hand-harvested fruit was fermented with selected yeasts at 18°C in stainless steel and went through malolactic conversion; the still wine saw no lees contact, but 20% was matured in used Château d'Yquem barrels for texture before the blend spent twenty years on the fine lees in bottle. 2002 was a dry year of exceptional maturity, with northerly and easterly winds keeping the vineyards healthy and early-summer water stress concentrating the juice, picked mid-September with high sugars and good acidity.
Food and drinking
Serve at 11–12°C, in a white wine glass rather than a flute. It will carry turbot in butter sauce, roast guinea fowl, truffled risotto or a mature Comté. Drinking beautifully now and will hold for many years yet; no decanting needed. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.