Gavi Dei Gavi, Black Label Limited Edition, La Scolca 2019
Falstaff 91 (2025); James Suckling 90 (2025); Wine Enthusiast 90 (2025)
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Why this wine
The Black Label is Gavi's benchmark, and the limited edition is bottled only in vintages La Scolca judges the finest. Six years on, Cortese from sixty-year-old vines has turned nutty and flinty while keeping its salt and its cut.
At a glance
- Grape
- Cortese
- Region
- Piedmont, Italy
- Alcohol
- 12.00%
- Body
- Light
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Poultry & Pork, Pasta
How it tastes
White flowers, almond and a mineral tone on the nose, then a complex, intense palate of orange, citrus and salty minerality. Light in body at 12% and taut with high acidity, layered with flint, almond and walnut on a lingering finish. Cortese.
The producer
La Scolca has worked the Cortese grape at Rovereto di Gavi since 1919, and the Soldati family's Gavi Dei Gavi is the wine that made the estate's name; this limited edition is bottled only in the finest vintages. The vineyards lie in the commune of Gavi on red clay, white and marly soils mixed with sand and silt, cooled by the proximity of the sea and the Libeccio winds, with the fruit selected from sixty-year-old vines trained to Guyot and cordon spur. The grapes were pressed gently and fermented plot by plot with wild yeasts at cool temperatures in stainless steel, the fermentation running on the lees, after which the wine rested an extended period on those lees with no oak and was clarified by natural sedimentation. 2019 was a warm year: a dry start, then good spring rainfall and a hot summer with regular rain, before a balanced September brought the fruit to full phenolic ripeness.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10-12C. It handles richer dishes than most Gavi will take: roast turbot, chicken with lemon and capers, trofie al pesto, or a young pecorino. Already showing well, and worth drinking over the next five years; no decanting needed. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.