Volnay, 1er Cru Santenots, Sarah Marsh 2019
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Why this wine
Santenots is the fleshiest of Volnay's Premiers Crus, and 2019 gave it charm on top of concentration. Wild-yeast fermentation with only two gentle punch-downs and no new oak keeps the fruit and the site in front, which is the whole point of buying Burgundy at this level.
At a glance
- Grape
- Pinot Noir
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 14.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- Medium
- Tannins
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Long (10-20 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Red Meat, Poultry & Pork, Cheese
How it tastes
Sumptuously perfumed, with silky red berry fruit and real concentration layered over freshness. Medium-bodied and svelte, the tannins satin-smooth through a long, aromatic finish. Pinot Noir 100%.
The producer
Sarah Marsh MW spent fifteen vintages tasting across Burgundy before starting an independent terroir-driven project, vinifying fruit from a single lieu-dit or a distinct part of a vineyard that can stand alone. Santenots is a highly regarded Premier Cru in Volnay, and this cuvée comes from Nicolas Rossignol's two-hectare parcel, which divides three ways by soil: stonier and closer to the Bathonian limestone on the Volnay side, sandier towards Meursault where the oldest vines sit, and softer clay on the section below. Vineyard work is deliberate and light — pruning follows the lunar calendar, the soils are lightly ploughed and the fruit is hand-harvested. In the cellar the fruit was sorted and fully de-stemmed, cold-soaked for seven days, fermented on wild yeasts with just two gentle foot pigeages, then matured in French barriques with no new oak until the following winter. 2019 was hot and dry like 2018 but made a more charming style, perfumed and flowing rather than dark and compact, with the terroir showing above the vintage.
Food and drinking
Serve at 16-18°C. Roast duck, veal with morels, mushroom risotto, or a mild washed-rind cheese. Drinking beautifully now and for another five years or so; no decanting required. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.