Syrah, Santa Maria Valley, The Language of Yes 2020

Cool-climate Californian Syrah, co-fermented with Viognier: black pepper, olive, violets, liquorice.

Parker 94 (2022); James Suckling 93

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£35.50

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Why this wine

Randall Grahm argued for decades that California should plant Rhône varieties rather than copy Bordeaux, and this single-vineyard Syrah from one of the state's coolest valleys is that argument in a bottle. Whole clusters, co-fermented Viognier, used oak, no fining or filtration. Peppery and savoury, for anyone who finds Californian reds too sweet.

At a glance

Grape
Syrah 87%, Viognier 13%
Region
California, USA
Alcohol
14.00%
Body
Medium
Acidity
High
Tannins
Medium
Sweetness
Dry
Drink
Short (3-5 yrs)
Pairs with
Red Meat, Spicy Dishes, Cheese
Syrah, Santa Maria Valley, The Language of Yes 2020
£35.50

How it tastes

Vivid black pepper, black olive, violets and liquorice over dark fruit, with white flowers behind. Lively acidity keeps it fresh rather than heavy, the texture is smooth and the finish long. Syrah 87%, Viognier 13%.

The producer

Randall Grahm made his name as a pioneer of Rhône varieties on California's Central Coast, and The Language of Yes is his latest project, an attempt to capture the essence of Old World wine through the uniqueness of the vineyards and the sunny disposition of California; the name translates La Langue d'Oc, the phrase medieval southern France used to describe itself by how it spoke. The Syrah and Viognier both come from Rancho Réal, a single vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley and one of the coolest sites in which vines are grown successfully in California, where Guyot-trained vines planted in 2010 sit at 200 to 290 metres in sandy loam; the long, cool growing season favours the rotundone that gives the wine its pepper, and the vines are certified sustainable. After picking, the grapes were dried briefly on trays in the shade of the vine to concentrate them and ripen the stems, then the two varieties were co-fermented in stainless steel with 50% whole clusters for a slow, controlled fermentation, aged twelve months in used barriques with heavy lees contact and little or no racking, and bottled without fining or filtration. 2020 was an excellent year on the Central Coast, with consistent temperatures, no major weather events and an even, healthy crop, despite wildfire smoke elsewhere in California.

Food and drinking

Serve at 16°C, with roast lamb, peppered steak, merguez sausages or a hard sheep's cheese. Drink over the next three to five years; an hour in a decanter opens it up. Sealed with a screwcap. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

However many bottles. Carefully packed, dispatched Wednesdays and Fridays.
Every wine on the list is picked by us, for what is in the glass.
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