Albariño Lindeiros, Rías Baixas, Lagar de Fornelos 2021
Tim Atkin MW 93; Guia Penin 91; Christer Byklum 89; Decanter World Wine Awards 88 points; Silver, Sommelier Wine Awards 2025
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Why this wine
Most Albariño is made to be drunk inside a year; this one is built to last, with twelve months on fine lees across oak, concrete and steel giving a texture the grape rarely gets. The fruit comes from a single plot planted in 1987 on Cambados granite. It is the Rías Baixas benchmark the range needed at the top end.
At a glance
- Grape
- Albariño
- Region
- Galicia, Spain
- Alcohol
- 13.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Poultry & Pork, Rich & Creamy Dishes
How it tastes
Apple and melon on the nose, with delicate white floral nuances behind. The palate is remarkably concentrated and beautifully textured — twelve months on fine lees across oak, concrete and steel has built weight without dulling the high acidity — and the finish is long and distinctly saline. Albariño 100%.
The producer
Lagar de Fornelos works in Pontevedra, in the heart of Rías Baixas, making elegant, pure and aromatic white wines; the family winery became a subsidiary of the La Rioja Alta S.A. group in 1998, and its holdings have since grown into the largest estate-owned Albariño vineyard in Rías Baixas at 77 hectares, with new production facilities — the most modern in DO Rías Baixas — opened in 2013. Lindeiros is named for the Galician 'linde', the boundary on which Albariño was traditionally planted between two estates, and comes entirely from the 3.8-hectare Troviscoso plot in Cambados, planted in 1987 and acquired in 2021 because it adjoins the estate's existing Viña Deiro vineyard; the soils are granite-based, worn down and opened up by the region's heavy rainfall so the roots can penetrate, and the sea is close enough that its breezes keep the microclimate cool. Hand-picked fruit was sorted and fermented at 15°C in three vessels — a 600-litre concrete egg, 400-litre French oak barrels and stainless steel — then aged twelve months on the fine lees in those same vessels, 25% in oak, 25% in the concrete egg and 50% in steel, and blended just before bottling. 2021 was a typical Atlantic year in Galicia: periodic rain, mild temperatures and a cool, dry summer pushed the harvest late and gave wines with pure aromatics and refreshing acidity.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C. It suits turbot or hake in a butter sauce, seared scallops, a chicken and leek pie, or a well-aged Manchego. Drink over the next five to ten years; half an hour in a decanter, or simply a larger glass, repays the wait.