Krafuss Pinot Noir, Alois Lageder 2022
Vinous 94 (2025)
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Why this wine
Pinot Noir in Italy is usually a disappointment; the altitude and cool nights of the Dolomites are one of the few places it works. Light-framed and savoury, closer to Burgundy than to anything else Italian. An unusual bottle and a genuine curiosity.
At a glance
- Grape
- Pinot Noir
- Region
- Alto Adige, Italy
- Alcohol
- 12.50%
- Body
- Light
- Acidity
- High
- Tannins
- Low
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Poultry & Pork, Cheese, Pasta
How it tastes
Red cherry, wild raspberry and a hint of spice. Silky and elegant, smooth but with vibrant acidity and savoury complexity, the red berries and spice lingering on a long finish. Pinot Noir 100%.
The producer
Johann Lageder began trading wine in 1823 alongside his work as a wagon maker; the family bought the Löwengang estate at Magrè in 1934, still the headquarters, and in the 1990s set out on a quality drive that helped redefine Alto Adige. Six generations on, the estate vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the family push their growers towards organic or biodynamic practice. Krafuss comes from steep, south-facing slopes at 430–450 metres in the foothills of the Dolomites, sun-drenched but cooled by alpine breezes, on loamy gravel and calcareous glacial deposits. The fruit is hand-picked and gently destemmed, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in steel with gentle extraction, then matured around 18 months in a mix of small and large oak casks and given only minimal filtration.
Food and drinking
Good with roast duck, mushroom risotto, speck and mild alpine cheeses. Drinking well now and will develop for five to eight years. Serve at 14–16°C. Certified organic.