Lomo de la Era, Bodegas Viñátigo 2022
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Why this wine
Canarian whites rarely reach the UK at this level of seriousness. Nine months in amphora, unracked and bottled without fining or filtration, gives this Listán Blanco a salinity and texture no stainless-steel white matches. It is the volcanic north of Tenerife in a glass, and the range needed one.
At a glance
- Grape
- Listán Blanco
- Region
- Tenerife, Spain
- Alcohol
- 12.00%
- Body
- Light
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Salads, Cheese
How it tastes
Pithy green fruit and a wisp of smoke on the nose, an aromatic blast of volcanic origin. The palate is thoroughly dry and quietly textured, a dusty salinity running beneath vibrant fruit and a honeyed character that builds as the wine opens, with taut acidity and only 12% alcohol keeping it light on its feet. Listán Blanco.
The producer
Bodegas Viñátigo exists to revive and promote the varietal heritage of the Canary Islands, a project that began in the 1990s at a century-old plot in the village of La Guancha in the north of Tenerife, where Listán Blanco and Listán Negro were vinified in the old family winery; a low-energy cellar built from local materials followed in 1997. Lomo de la Era is a single vineyard in the Paraje de la Cruz Santa, on the western slopes of the La Orotava Valley at 500 metres, where sandy, silty basalt soils are cooled by North Atlantic trade winds and vines up to eighty years old — some running twenty metres in length — are trained in the traditional cordón trenzado, farmed organically with cover crops and treated only with sulphur, copper, bentonite and cinnamon. Fermentation ran on indigenous yeasts without temperature control in amphorae, where the wine then rested nine months unracked before bottling without fining or filtration. 2022 was a cloudy year, unusual this close to the Sahara: ripening slowed and the natural acidity that gives the wine its tension was retained.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C. It goes with grilled sea bass, papas arrugadas with mojo verde, a young goat's cheese, or a salad of tomato and cured olives. Drink over the next five to ten years; no decanting needed. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.