Puligny-Montrachet Enseignères, Olivier Leflaive 2022
Jasper Morris 93
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Why this wine
Enseignères sits immediately below Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, about as good an address as a village Puligny can claim. Forty-six-year-old vines and a cellar known for tension rather than fat, finished in steel to keep the wine bright. Precision rather than padding.
At a glance
- Grape
- Chardonnay
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 13.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Poultry & Pork, Cheese
How it tastes
A delicate bouquet of citrus and white flowers, then a mouth-watering palate that is creamy and finely textured without carrying weight. Medium-bodied, high in acidity, long and elegant at the finish. Chardonnay 100%.
The producer
Olivier Leflaive set up on his own in 1984 and grew the domaine to seventeen hectares; it works as both grower and négociant, blending its own parcels with fruit bought from around a hundred of the Côte d'Or's finest growers, with Franck Grux in the cellar. Enseignères takes its name from the Old French for an oak grove, and the site — four plots across 9.12 hectares at 230 to 250 metres — sits directly below Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet on calcareous clay over limestone flagstone, among the richer and more powerful terroirs in the commune. The vines average forty-six years, are farmed sustainably and picked entirely by hand. Vinified from whole grapes after a 24-hour static settling, the wine fermented and went through malolactic conversion in French oak, then spent twelve months in barrel with a fifth of them new and a final six months in stainless steel. A cold, wet winter in 2022 replenished the soil and delayed budburst past the April frosts, and the early harvest gave balanced, aromatic fruit.
Food and drinking
Serve at 11–13°C. Dover sole, scallops, chicken in a cream sauce, or a soft cow's-milk cheese. Drinking well now and will hold five to ten years. Sealed with a DIAM cork.