Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, Michel Gayot 2022
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Why this wine
En Remilly shares a boundary and much of its stony soil with Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, and makes wine in the same idiom at a fraction of the outlay. Gayot keeps fermentation in steel and sends only the malolactic to barrel, which leaves the flinty character of the site intact. The delicacy is the point here, not the weight.
At a glance
- Grape
- Chardonnay
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 13.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Long (10-20 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Poultry & Pork, Seafood, Rich & Creamy Dishes
How it tastes
Richly aromatic on the nose - white flowers, almond, beeswax and a touch of cinnamon - then delicate and creamy across the palate. Medium-bodied, dry and finely balanced, with a flinty edge from the stony soil. Chardonnay 100%.
The producer
Michel Gayot grew up among vines and describes a visceral attachment to the earth and what it gives back when it is looked after, a habit passed on by his parents; after studying management he worked in the wine trade at home and abroad before buying this vineyard in the heart of Burgundy, which he farms alongside the family estate in Beaujolais. En Remilly is a Premier Cru at the southern end of the Cote de Beaune, bordering Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, with pebbly, free-draining calcareous topsoil much like Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet that pushes roots deep into the limestone and leaves a mineral, flinty print on the wine; the results tend to be more delicate than the famous neighbours. Vines are worked to the traditional methods of the appellation and picked by hand at full maturity. Fermentation ran in stainless steel to keep the fruit clean, malolactic conversion took place in French oak, and the wine matured nine to twelve months in 228-litre barriques, 20% of them new. The 2022 season was temperate with decent rainfall and enough sun for a semi-late mid-September harvest, giving concentration and acidity in equal measure after three small vintages.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10-12C. Roast poulet de Bresse, scallops in butter, sole meuniere or a chicken and morel fricassee. Drinking now and over the next five to ten years; no decanting needed. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.