Santenay Clos des Champs Carafe, Antoine Olivier 2022
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Why this wine
White Santenay is scarce in a village that mostly makes red, and Clos des Champs Carafe is the highest walled vineyard in it. That elevation holds onto acidity that much of the Cote de Beaune is losing, and the barrel work is measured enough to leave it intact. Serious white Burgundy for well under what the famous names up the road command.
At a glance
- Grape
- Chardonnay
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 13.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Poultry & Pork, Cheese
How it tastes
Grapefruit and lemon pith lead, with a chalky, saline edge that keeps everything taut. Medium-bodied and razor-sharp, the barrel work adding texture rather than weight, and the finish runs long and salty. Chardonnay 100%.
The producer
Antoine Olivier is a Santenay estate built on old white-wine vineyards, something of a rarity in a village known mostly for red; the family bought back historic parcels that had been out of use, some for a century. The fruit here comes from Clos des Champs Carafe, a walled plot that sits highest in the village, where the elevation keeps the acidity fresh. Grapes are hand-picked and sorted, gently pressed and racked to barrel, where fermentation runs on natural yeasts; the wine stays on its fine lees with batonnage, completes malolactic conversion in barrel and spends twelve months in 350-litre barrels, 20% of them new, then a further six months in tank before a light fining and filtration. The vineyard is farmed organically and sustainably, with some biodynamic practice, though it is not certified.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10-12C. Grilled sea bass, roast chicken, crab linguine or a young goat's cheese all work. Drinking well now and through the next five to eight years; no decanting needed. Sealed under DIAM. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.