AltO de Cantenac, Bordeaux, Château Cantenac Brown 2023
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Why this wine
White Bordeaux made the serious way: one 1.80-hectare plot of clay and limestone, hand-picked at dawn, fermented in barrel with bâtonnage and given about a year in French oak, only a tenth of it new. Sauvignon Blanc leads, with Sémillon for texture. Mineral and taut rather than tropical, and built for the table.
At a glance
- Grape
- Sauvignon Blanc 90%, Sémillon 10%
- Region
- Bordeaux, France
- Alcohol
- 13.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Poultry & Pork, Cheese
How it tastes
White flowers and a hint of citrus on the nose, then a flinty, mineral palate layered with white orchard fruit. Medium-bodied and vibrant, with high acidity and a fine, gently textured finish from its time in barrel. Sauvignon Blanc 90%, Sémillon 10%.
The producer
AltO is the white wine of Cantenac Brown, drawn from a single 1.80-hectare plot of clay and calcareous soil whose cool conditions suit white grapes. Leaf thinning in early spring aerates the bunches and improves sun exposure while protecting the fruit's aromas, and the grapes are hand-harvested into crates in the cool of the morning to keep their freshness. In the estate's gravity-fed winery the fruit was gently pressed under an inert atmosphere, then fermented in French oak barrels at controlled temperature with regular bâtonnage until dry; the young wine spent roughly twelve months in French oak, 10% new and 90% one vintage old. 2023 was a warm year with light humidity, a hot and slightly humid start and rain in late June, which demanded constant green pruning and vigilance against mildew across every plot. José Sanfins made the wine.
Food and drinking
Serve at 8–10°C. Good with oysters, grilled sea bass, roast chicken, goat's cheese and green salads. Drinking now and over the next five to eight years. Sealed with a natural cork.