Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, Domaine William Fèvre 2023
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Why this wine
Vaulorent is the Premier Cru that behaves like a Grand Cru, sharing its slope with Les Preuses and parted from it only by a path. Fèvre farms a fifth of the cru and ages the wine mostly in steel, so the site does the talking rather than the oak. One of the most serious bottles in the Chablis range.
At a glance
- Grape
- Chardonnay
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 13.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Long (10-20 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Cheese, Poultry & Pork
How it tastes
Citrus and white-fleshed fruit with the flinty mineral note the appellation is known for, then a nutty, reductive edge picked up over long ageing. Rich and concentrated on the palate but taut with it, high in acidity, and very long. Chardonnay 100%.
The producer
Domaine William Fèvre holds more Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyard in Chablis than any other estate; William Fèvre took the reins in 1959 and expanded it by buying cru parcels before retiring in 1998, and it now belongs to the Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite family business. Vaulorent is the only Premier Cru to share a slope with a Grand Cru, separated from Les Preuses by a simple path, and its deep marl soils give powerful, mineral wines; the estate farms 3.63 of the cru's 17 hectares, a little over a fifth of it, on slopes facing southeast to southwest. Didier Séguier has run the cellar since 2000, moved the Premier and Grand Cru parcels to biodynamics in 2010 and in 2014 made this the first Chablis estate to gain HVE3 certification. The 2023 was pressed gently for an hour and a half, moved by gravity rather than pumps, fermented in temperature-controlled steel and aged nineteen months, with two-fifths of the blend spending five to six months in French oak before the wine finished in small steel tanks.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C. Oysters, langoustine, turbot in butter, or a mature Chaource. Drinking now and worth a decade or more in the cellar. Sealed with a DIAM cork. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.