Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, Domaine William Fèvre 2023
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Why this wine
Les Clos is the benchmark Chablis Grand Cru, and Fèvre farms 4.11 hectares of it — sixteen per cent of the appellation — on the sunniest upper slopes. Twenty months of ageing, only forty per cent of it briefly in oak, gives concentration without disguising the limestone. The bottle in this range most worth putting away.
At a glance
- Grape
- Chardonnay
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 13.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Long (10-20 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Cheese, Rich & Creamy Dishes
How it tastes
White fruit, oyster shell and a delicate spice over limestone minerality, the palate concentrated and broad-shouldered but never loud. Medium-bodied with high acidity holding the weight in balance, and a finish that keeps going. Chardonnay 100%.
The producer
Domaine William Fèvre owns more Premier and Grand Cru vineyard than any other estate in Chablis, and has been part of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite family business since 1998, with Didier Séguier in charge of the cellar. Les Clos is the largest and most famous of the Grand Crus and the historical heart of Chablis, 26.04 hectares facing due south on very white, dense, deep clay full of fossils and stones, with limestone compressions about eighty centimetres down that give the wine its spicy note in youth. The estate holds 4.11 hectares of it, sixteen per cent of the appellation, on the higher, fully sunlit slopes. Organic practices have been used across fifty hectares since 2000, biodynamics on every Premier and Grand Cru parcel since 2010, and in 2014 this became the first estate in Chablis to gain HVE3 certification. The 2023 was moved by gravity rather than pumps, pressed for under two hours and fermented in temperature-controlled steel, then aged twenty months with forty per cent of the blend spending five to six months in French oak and the remainder finishing in small steel tanks.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C. Lobster, turbot in butter sauce, veal, or a hard mountain cheese such as Comté. Drinking now and will keep developing over ten to twenty years. Sealed with a DIAM cork. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.