Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, Domaine William Fèvre 2023
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Why this wine
Valmur lies between Vaudésir and Les Clos and takes something from each: the fruit of one, the frame of the other. Fèvre farms its parcel biodynamically and finishes most of the wine in steel, so the site speaks rather than the barrel. Grand Cru Chablis that will still be improving in a decade.
At a glance
- Grape
- Chardonnay
- Region
- Burgundy, France
- Alcohol
- 13.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Long (10-20 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Cheese, Poultry & Pork
How it tastes
Pure and finely drawn, with white orchard fruit, a lift of chalky minerality and a touch of crystallised ginger across the palate. Medium-bodied and taut, the acidity high, the finish long and persistent. Chardonnay 100%.
The producer
Domaine William Fèvre owns more Premier and Grand Cru vineyard than any other estate in Chablis, and has been part of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite family business since 1998, with Didier Séguier in charge of the cellar. Valmur forms a small valley between Vaudésir and Les Clos; the estate's parcel covers 1.15 hectares, nine per cent of the appellation, facing south to south-east on the crest of the hill where a cool microclimate holds the fruit back, on clay-limestone that runs deep and brown at the valley floor and lean and white at the summit. Organic practices have been used across fifty hectares since 2000, biodynamics on every Premier and Grand Cru parcel since 2010, and in 2014 this became the first estate in Chablis to gain HVE3 certification. The 2023 was moved by gravity rather than pumps, pressed for under two hours and fermented in temperature-controlled steel, then aged eighteen months with forty per cent of the blend spending five to six months in French oak and the remainder finishing in small steel tanks.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C. Oysters, langoustine, turbot, or roast chicken; a young goat's cheese suits it too. Drinking now and will keep developing over ten to twenty years. Sealed with a DIAM cork. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.