Crozes-Hermitage, Saint Cosme 2023
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Why this wine
Saint Cosme is a Gigondas estate, but Louis Barruol's northern Rhône cuvées are among the most characterful Crozes-Hermitage made. This one is all Sérine, the old small-berried Syrah, off hillside sites at Larnage, Erôme and Gervans rather than the appellation's flatlands. That is where the smoke and the pepper come from.
At a glance
- Grape
- Syrah
- Region
- Rhône Valley, France
- Alcohol
- 13.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- Medium
- Tannins
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Red Meat, Cheese, Barbecue
How it tastes
Smoky bacon and blackberry lead, with white pepper and a thread of incense behind them. The palate is rich and intense but stays medium in weight, with fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity carrying a long finish. Syrah 100%.
The producer
Château de Saint Cosme lies in the southern Rhône appellation of Gigondas and has been in the Barruol family for over 500 years; Louis Barruol, the fourteenth generation, took over from his father in 1992 and has since built a négociant range alongside the estate, working in small batches alongside growers across the valley. This cuvée is a nod to the historic heart of Crozes-Hermitage, drawn from hillside vineyards at Larnage, Erôme and Gervans, and made entirely from Sérine, an ancient, small-berried, low-yielding heirloom Syrah native to the region that Barruol credits for the smoky character of northern Rhône wines and that thrives on the appellation's granite. The fruit was fully destemmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts, then matured for twelve months in French oak casks, 20% of them new, and bottled without filtration.
Food and drinking
Serve at 16°C. Good with roast lamb, peppered steak, duck with olives, or a mature hard sheep's cheese. Drink over the next three to five years, and give it an hour in a decanter. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.