Estate Reserve Viognier, Greyton, Lismore Estate Vineyards 2023
Tim Atkin MW 96; James Suckling 93
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Why this wine
Viognier this concentrated usually loses its edges; eighteen months in Burgundian barrel here builds weight while dry-farmed shale vineyards and a very late harvest hold the acidity in place. It is Lismore's top white and the clearest statement of what Greyton can do. Nothing else in the range covers this ground.
At a glance
- Grape
- Viognier
- Region
- Greyton, South Africa
- Alcohol
- 14.00%
- Body
- Full
- Acidity
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Poultry & Pork, Rich & Creamy Dishes, Spicy Dishes
How it tastes
Dried apricot, yellow peach and fresh ginger, with honeysuckle and nectarine behind. The palate is rich and concentrated, weighted by eighteen months in barrel, but fresh, clean acidity keeps the finish mineral rather than heavy. Viognier 100%.
The producer
The Californian Samantha O'Keefe founded Lismore Estate Vineyards in the foothills of the Sonderend mountain range at the bottom of Africa, and the estate was recently classed as a First Growth and crowned Winery of the Year in Tim Atkin MW's 2026 South Africa Report; it also pioneered the Wine of Origin 'Greyton', designated by SAWIS in recognition of that terroir. The Estate Reserve range was created to show what those vineyards can do: very low yielding, dry-farmed vines at 300 metres above sea level, on decomposed shale over clay that drives the concentration, with low February temperatures stretching ripening so the harvest can fall three or four weeks later than in South Africa's traditional growing regions. Vinification was deliberately minimal — whole-bunch pressing at 600 litres per tonne, the juice cold settled for 48 hours and racked into 225- and 500-litre Burgundian barrels, 30% of them new, for a spontaneous natural fermentation and eighteen months' maturation.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C; colder than that and the aromatics close up. It goes with roast pork belly, a mild Thai curry, grilled prawns or a creamy chicken dish. Drink now or over the next five to ten years; no decanting needed. Sealed with a DIAM closure. Suitable for vegetarians.