Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Terrasses des Vallerots, Domaine Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont 2023

Silky, organically farmed Nuits-Saint-Georges from a terraced plot above 1er Cru Vaucrains.

Jasper Morris 92

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£60.50

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Why this wine

Nuits-Saint-Georges is usually the firmest village in the Cote de Nuits, and this bottling shows its other face: purity and lift rather than muscle. The plot was abandoned after phylloxera and never treated with chemicals, so certification came without a conversion period. A small, precise domaine that still flies under the radar.

At a glance

Grape
Pinot Noir
Region
Burgundy, France
Alcohol
13.50%
Body
Medium
Acidity
Medium
Tannins
Medium
Sweetness
Dry
Drink
Medium (5-10 yrs)
Pairs with
Poultry & Pork, Red Meat, Cheese
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Terrasses des Vallerots, Domaine Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont 2023
£60.50

How it tastes

Ripe berry fruit with a stony, faintly spiced edge underneath. Medium-bodied and silky, the tannins fine-grained and the acidity bright enough to keep the finish long and clean. This is the elegant side of Nuits rather than the firm one. Pinot Noir 100%.

The producer

Domaine Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont is one of Burgundy's quieter addresses: six hectares of certified organic Pinot Noir and Aligote worked from cellars outside Curtil-Vergy in the Hautes-Cotes, separated from Vosne-Romanee by thick forest. Axelle Machard de Gramont joined the family domaine in 2005 after years in Paris and rebuilt the range around minimal intervention and sparing use of oak. Les Terrasses des Vallerots is a two-hectare terraced plot planted in 2001 in the Vallerots climat, directly above the 1er Cru Vaucrains; the ground had lain abandoned since phylloxera and had never received chemical treatment, so organic farming began immediately. The soil is gravelly and high in limestone, facing east to south-east for the morning sun, and since 2023 treatments have been applied by drone to spare the soil compaction. The fruit was fully destemmed, gravity-fed into a conical wooden vat and fermented with indigenous yeasts after a short cold soak, with gentle daily pump-overs, then aged twelve months in French oak, 15 per cent new, and six months in stainless steel. The 2023 growing season saw good flowering in early June, an unsettled July, then a hot and sunny end to summer.

Food and drinking

Serve at 16C. Roast duck, guinea fowl, mushroom and barley dishes, and a well-aged Comte. Drinking from now to around 2033, with an hour in a decanter for a young bottle. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

However many bottles. Carefully packed, dispatched Wednesdays and Fridays.
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