Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, La Crema 2023
Wine Spectator 91 (2026); Wine Enthusiast 90
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Why this wine
La Crema has worked only in cool-climate sites since 1979, and the Sonoma Coast is where that discipline shows: fog and ocean wind keep the acidity intact while the fruit ripens slowly. Five to six months in French oak, a fifth of it new, so the oak supports rather than covers. A benchmark Californian Pinot Noir for the money.
At a glance
- Grape
- Pinot Noir
- Region
- California, USA
- Alcohol
- 13.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Tannins
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Short (3-5 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Poultry & Pork, Seafood, Cheese
How it tastes
Wild red cherry, plum and blackberry with a subtle note of tea, filling out into boysenberry, espresso and spice. Velvety and smooth, with well-integrated tannins and a bright acidity that drives a long finish. Pinot Noir.
The producer
La Crema was founded in 1979 as La Crema Viñera, 'best of the vine', at a time when the Russian River Valley had yet to make its name for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and its early vintages went into learning cold-climate viticulture; the family-owned winery still works only in cool-climate appellations and has since expanded from the Russian River Valley to Monterey and Oregon's Willamette Valley, with head winemaker Craig McAllister blending Burgundian technique with Californian flair. The Sonoma Coast AVA runs from Mendocino to San Pablo Bay, and its Pacific winds, fog and wide day-to-night temperature swings let the fruit ripen slowly while holding acidity, on soils that range from clay loam near the bay to rocky, ocean-born ground on the Pacific ridges; La Crema's sustainability work is certified by Sustainability In Practice and Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing, 60% of the estate vineyards are left unplanted for natural habitat, and water is recycled and applied by precision drip. The hand-harvested grapes were fermented with selected yeasts until dry and aged five to six months in French oak, 21% of it new. Sonoma County had record winter and early spring rainfall in 2023, bud break came late in March, the season stayed cool and ran three to four weeks behind, and the long hang time built flavour while keeping acidity.
Food and drinking
Serve at 15°C, with roast duck, grilled salmon, mushroom risotto or a soft washed-rind cheese. Drink over the next three to five years. Sealed with an agglomerate cork. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.