Grüner Veltliner, Käferberg, Weingut Rabl 2024
Falstaff 93; Decanter World Wine Awards 90 points
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Why this wine
Käferberg is a named single vineyard on primary rock and limestone, and the extra work it gets — vine-by-vine pruning, low yields, hand sorting — shows up as concentration rather than weight for its own sake. Six months on lees rounds off the edges without dulling the pepper that makes Grüner Veltliner worth drinking. A serious Austrian white that still goes with a weeknight dinner.
At a glance
- Grape
- Grüner Veltliner
- Region
- Kamptal, Austria
- Alcohol
- 13.50%
- Body
- Full
- Acidity
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Poultry & Pork, Seafood, Salads
How it tastes
Ripe pineapple and spiced apple up front, with honey, marzipan and a hint of vanilla behind them. Bright and fresh through the middle, with a savoury mineral streak, and a long finish that turns creamy and peppery. Full-bodied and bone dry. Grüner Veltliner 100%.
The producer
Weingut Rabl farms 100 hectares of hillside vineyard around Langenlois in Austria's Kamptal-Donau region, where a narrow valley and mineral-rich soils give the wines their bite. Käferberg is one of the best sites in the area, on primary rock with layers of limestone; the vines are pruned vine by vine for even aeration and sun exposure, yields are held low to concentrate flavour, and the fruit is sorted by hand at picking. Whole bunches went in at full physiological ripeness, spent several hours on skins to draw out flavour, then fermented with wild and selected yeasts in stainless steel to keep the fruit clean, and rested around six months on lees for texture. The estate farms to Sustainable Austria certification and was IWSC White Wine Maker of the Year in 2019 and 2021.
Food and drinking
Serve at 10–12°C. Works with roast pork, schnitzel, grilled sea bass, or a warm salad of asparagus and eggs. Drinking well now and through to around 2029. Sealed under screwcap. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.