Gavi Dei Gavi, Black Label, La Scolca 2025
Falstaff 91 (2025); James Suckling 90 (2025); Wine Enthusiast 90 (2025)
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Why this wine
The wine that made Gavi's name, from the estate that has worked Cortese at Rovereto since 1919 and trademarked the phrase Gavi dei Gavi for its Black Label. Fruit from sixty-year-old vines and a long spell on the lees give it a depth most Gavi never reaches.
At a glance
- Grape
- Cortese
- Region
- Piedmont, Italy
- Alcohol
- 12.00%
- Body
- Light
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Salads, Pasta
How it tastes
White flowers and almond on the nose, then a vivid, intense palate of orange and citrus carried by a salty minerality. Light in body at 12% and taut through the middle, with flint, almond and walnut on a long, fresh finish. Cortese.
The producer
La Scolca has worked the Cortese grape at Rovereto di Gavi since 1919, and the Soldati family's Gavi Dei Gavi is the wine that made the estate's name. The vineyards lie in the commune of Gavi on a patchwork of red clay, white and marly soils mixed with sand and silt, cooled by the proximity of the sea and the Libeccio winds, and the fruit for this bottling is selected from sixty-year-old vines trained to Guyot and cordon spur. The grapes were pressed gently and fermented plot by plot with wild yeasts at cool temperatures in stainless steel, the fermentation running on the lees, after which the wine rested an extended period on those lees with no oak at all and was clarified by natural sedimentation.
Food and drinking
Serve at 8-10C. It suits grilled prawns, vitello tonnato, salt cod fritters or a simple risotto with lemon and herbs. Drink over the next five years; no decanting needed. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.