How it tastes
Ripe red and black fruit threaded with pepper, fig leaf and a flinty, smoky minerality. The frame is light and fluent rather than weighty, with bright acidity and soft, unobtrusive tannins. Listán Negro 100%.
The producer
Bodegas Viñátigo exists to revive the varietal heritage of the Canary Islands, a project that began in the 1990s at a century-old plot in the village of La Guancha, in the north of Tenerife, where Listán Blanco and Listán Negro were vinified in the old family winery; it has since expanded into Gual, Marmajuelo and Vijariego, and in 1997 built a winery from local materials designed to minimise energy use. The vines are spread across small sites in the north and north-west of the island, all ungrafted because phylloxera never reached the archipelago, grown on volcanic soils under the cooling Alisios trade winds and trained by methods that range from the traditional rastras of the north-west to the cordón trenzado of the Orotava Valley; the ground is steep enough that everything is worked by hand, and cover crops feed the soil in place of herbicides. The grapes were moved by gravity and fermented spontaneously with wild yeasts in vats of varying size, entirely destemmed to keep the freshness and fluency the variety is prized for, then rested three months in old barrels.
Food and drinking
Serve lightly chilled, at 14-16°C, with grilled red mullet, chorizo, roast chicken, or papas arrugadas with mojo. Drink over the next three to four years; it needs no decanting. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.