Riesling, Federspiel, Weingut Johann Donabaum 2025
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Why this wine
Two hectares in the Spitzer Graben, yields held punishingly low, and a refusal to soften the wine with botrytis-affected fruit the way much of Austria does. Federspiel is the middle tier in Wachau, built for drinking rather than long cellaring, and this bottling carries the precision of the site without the weight. Production is tiny and the wines are always in demand.
At a glance
- Grape
- Riesling
- Region
- Wachau, Austria
- Alcohol
- 12.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Drink now (1-3 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Seafood, Poultry & Pork, Salads
How it tastes
Peach and apricot on the nose, then a crisp palate of pure lime and white pepper. Delicate minerality runs underneath, and the finish stays lively and fresh rather than weighty. Riesling 100%.
The producer
Johann Donabaum has made terroir-driven Wachau wine for 25 years from just two hectares of family-owned vineyards, and the wines are consistently in high demand. The vines cling to steep, schistous terraces in the Spitzer Graben in western Wachau, planted with a south-westerly orientation, where cooling breezes temper the climate and very sandy soils with high heat retention sit over weathered pegmatite and calc-silicate gneiss — rock low in water retention, and the source of the structure in the glass. Yields are held extremely low and total production is tiny. Where many Austrian estates pick a proportion of botrytis-affected grapes to add sweetness, Donabaum declines, on the grounds that sweetness obscures the site. Grapes were harvested at optimal maturity and meticulously sorted, then fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel to keep the fruit pure. The estate holds the Vinea Wachau sustainable certification.
Food and drinking
Serve at 8–10°C. Good with grilled river fish, roast chicken, a goat's cheese salad, or pork schnitzel with lemon. Drink now and over the next six to eight years; no decanting needed. Sealed under screwcap. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.