All wines

Sixty-five-year-old vines in a parcel that borders Puligny, made by one of the most dependable white-wine cellars in the Côte de Beaune.

A classified-growth Margaux with fourteen years behind it, which is the point at which claret stops being a project and starts being a drink.

Pomerol on a small scale: a handful of hectares on the plateau's southern slopes, organically farmed and aged on its fine lees without racking.

A first-rank Pomerol estate on the Saint-Émilion border, Merlot-dominant and now fully mature at fourteen years old.

White Châteauneuf is the appellation's quiet corner, and this is one of its long-standing examples, made here since the seventeenth century.

The estate's flagship red, from galet-strewn vineyards held to just 30 hectolitres per hectare and raised mostly in concrete so the fruit stays clear.

Les Cailloux is one of the appellation's long-standing names, built from six plots across gravel, clay and limestone rather than a single site.

The earlier-drinking of Solitude's two Châteauneuf reds, raised almost entirely in concrete so the fruit stays bright.

Barrel-fermented Chenin usually trades tension for weight; this one keeps both, with eleven months on the lees adding grip rather than fat.

Chenin Blanc is South Africa's signature white, and the old blocks are the ones worth chasing — here vines planted in 1985 and 1993, salv...

Chenin Blanc at its most direct — no oak, no sugar, just apple, stone fruit and salt.

Gran Selezione is the top rung of Chianti Classico, introduced in 2013, requiring estate fruit and thirty months' ageing.

Gran Selezione is the top rung of Chianti Classico, and this is one of the few made by an estate that has farmed organically since 1988.

Badia a Coltibuono first bottled this wine at the estate in the 1950s and it remains the house benchmark: the traditional Sangiovese blen...

Cultus is the estate's barrique-aged Riserva, built from massal-selection vines propagated off Badia a Coltibuono's oldest plantings.

Querciabella has farmed organically since 1988, long before it was fashionable, and blends three very different Chianti Classico sites --...

Badia a Coltibuono has farmed this land since 1846 and organically since 1995, long before it was fashionable.

Chinon is Cabernet Franc's home ground, and this one is built for drinking rather than keeping — a year in barrel and a year in bottle be...

Century-old, dry-farmed bush vines and hand-made winemaking at a price that rarely buys either.

Hoffmann & Rathbone make tiny quantities and refuse to release them young, so this 2015 has had seven to ten years on lees before disgorg...

Vines planted in 1963 in the centre of the Clos, in a vintage where April frost destroyed ninety per cent of the shoots and concentrated ...

Roederer abandoned the idea of a fixed non-vintage blend in favour of numbered releases built on a perpetual reserve, and 242 is one of the earliest.

Condrieu was down to a handful of hectares before Georges Vernay replanted it, and Coteau de Vernon is the family's historic parcel — 2.5...

Condrieu is a tiny appellation and most of it is made in a rich, heady register.