Wines £25 to £50

Cultus is the estate's barrique-aged Riserva, built from massal-selection vines propagated off Badia a Coltibuono's oldest plantings.

Badia a Coltibuono first bottled this wine at the estate in the 1950s and it remains the house benchmark: the traditional Sangiovese blen...

La Sommelière is Campuget's selection off the best vines on the estate, a clear step up from the volume Costières de Nîmes bottlings.

Courbis own the southernmost slice of Saint-Joseph, right up against their Cornas holdings, and the wine tastes of it: fleshier and darke...

Saint-Joseph is where the northern Rhône becomes affordable without becoming anonymous, and Le Grand Pompée is Jaboulet's long-standing version of it.

This is the flagship of a regeneratively farmed estate in the Plaine des Maures, and it is built like a white Burgundy rather than a pool...

A single-village Rioja bottled outside the Crianza and Reserva ladder, so it tastes of Laguardia rather than of barrel time.

Viognier turns blowsy in warm places; Lismore's high, cold site at the southern tip of Africa gives it perfume without losing the acid line.

Les Cailloux is one of the appellation's long-standing names, built from six plots across gravel, clay and limestone rather than a single site.

Most rosé is made to be drunk cold and forgotten; this one is whole-bunch pressed into old Burgundy barrels and left eight months on its ...

Aglianico is southern Italy's great red grape, and picked early off Irpinia hillsides at up to 700 metres it makes a rosato with proper a...

Maturana Blanca was almost lost to Rioja and is still planted in tiny quantity; this is a single 4.3-hectare plot of it at up to 750 metres.

Cape Merlot usually means soft and simple; this comes off steep, cool, south-facing slopes and spends fifteen months in barrel, a third of them new.

The estate's flagship red, from galet-strewn vineyards held to just 30 hectolitres per hectare and raised mostly in concrete so the fruit stays clear.

The Douro's white grapes are still a well-kept secret, and this is one of the most serious expressions of them: barrel-fermented, lees-st...

Almost all the white wine in Côtes de Provence is Rolle, and this is a clean, unoaked expression of it from a single plot below the estat...

The house that defined the traditional Rioja Reserva, and the cuvée where its method is easiest to read.

Grenache Blanc is rare in South Africa, and rarer still handled this way — whole-bunch pressed, fermented with wild yeast in seasoned bar...

A single 1.4-hectare parcel at Gervans, some of it planted in 1945, farmed organically and kept as a biodiversity refuge.

Provence sells so much rosé that its reds go unnoticed, which is why this one is good value.

Rouanne et Les Crottes is the parcel Louis Barruol singles out as showing the estate at its best whatever the year, and it has been under...

White Saint-Joseph is a small fraction of the appellation and rarely leaves France in quantity.

Sancerre rosé is a fraction of the appellation's output and rarely leaves France, which makes a good one worth seeking out.

Graeme and Julie Bott built a ten-hectare northern Rhône domaine from nothing, starting in a neighbour's garage.