Wines £25 to £50

Les Cailloux is one of the appellation's long-standing names, built from six plots across gravel, clay and limestone rather than a single site.

Most rosé is made to be drunk cold and forgotten; this one is whole-bunch pressed into old Burgundy barrels and left eight months on its ...

Aglianico is southern Italy's great red grape, and picked early off Irpinia hillsides at up to 700 metres it makes a rosato with proper a...

Maturana Blanca was almost lost to Rioja and is still planted in tiny quantity; this is a single 4.3-hectare plot of it at up to 750 metres.

Cape Merlot usually means soft and simple; this comes off steep, cool, south-facing slopes and spends fifteen months in barrel, a third of them new.

The estate's flagship red, from galet-strewn vineyards held to just 30 hectolitres per hectare and raised mostly in concrete so the fruit stays clear.

The Douro's white grapes are still a well-kept secret, and this is one of the most serious expressions of them: barrel-fermented, lees-st...

Almost all the white wine in Côtes de Provence is Rolle, and this is a clean, unoaked expression of it from a single plot below the estat...

The house that defined the traditional Rioja Reserva, and the cuvée where its method is easiest to read.

Grenache Blanc is rare in South Africa, and rarer still handled this way — whole-bunch pressed, fermented with wild yeast in seasoned bar...

A single 1.4-hectare parcel at Gervans, some of it planted in 1945, farmed organically and kept as a biodiversity refuge.

Provence sells so much rosé that its reds go unnoticed, which is why this one is good value.

White Châteauneuf is the appellation's quiet corner, and this is one of its long-standing examples, made here since the seventeenth century.

Rouanne et Les Crottes is the parcel Louis Barruol singles out as showing the estate at its best whatever the year, and it has been under...

White Saint-Joseph is a small fraction of the appellation and rarely leaves France in quantity.

Sancerre rosé is a fraction of the appellation's output and rarely leaves France, which makes a good one worth seeking out.

Graeme and Julie Bott built a ten-hectare northern Rhône domaine from nothing, starting in a neighbour's garage.

The earlier-drinking of Solitude's two Châteauneuf reds, raised almost entirely in concrete so the fruit stays bright.

Emilia Romagna is better known for everyday reds than for serious rosé, and this is the exception: a single-vineyard Sangiovese pressed s...

A step up from the estate's regular Gigondas: one named plot, Grenache planted in 1948, and the concentration that comes with it.

Provence is overwhelmingly rosé country, and reds of this seriousness rarely leave it.

Vinsobres is the coolest and least known of the southern Rhône crus, and this is a single lieu-dit off its best slope rather than an estate blend.

Gigondas sits alongside Châteauneuf-du-Pape at the warm southern end of the Rhône and gives much of the same weight and spice.

Mule Blanche is Jaboulet's white Crozes-Hermitage, from old vines in the Conflans sector planted between 1956 and 1974.