Wines £25 to £50

Amarone from the highest vineyards in Valpantena, where ripening runs a month behind the valley floor and the wine keeps its lift.

Vassilis Tsaktsarlis learned white winemaking from Denis Dubourdieu, and Ovilos is the result: equal Assyrtiko and Semillon fermented in ...

San Marzano's members hold some of the oldest Primitivo bush vines in Puglia, and Anniversario 62 is the Riserva drawn from the best of those plots.

Malagousia had almost disappeared before Gerovassiliou replanted it in 1981, and this single-vineyard bottling is the reference point for the variety.

A 2.5-hectare plot made only in the vintages that deserve it, and released after four years in bottle rather than pushed out early.

Pošip is Dalmatia's great indigenous white, and Stina's plots on Brač are old, dry-farmed and rooted in the island's limestone.

Etna's volcanic slopes give Nerello Mascalese a lightness and savour that has more in common with northern Italy than with the Mediterran...

Half the fruit dried on racks and twenty months in oak give this the depth of a far more expensive Veneto red without tipping into Amarone weight.

Gerovassiliou is the estate that brought Malagousia back from near-extinction, and the Estate White is where it meets Assyrtiko on equal ...

Avaton is built entirely from indigenous Greek varieties, each fermented separately in small oak casks and aged twelve months in French oak.

Pietracalda is Feudi's single-vineyard Fiano, grown between 400 and 600 metres on clay and limestone in Irpinia, and the Riserva bottling...

Feudi di San Gregorio did more than any other producer to bring Campania's native grapes back into serious wine, and Serrocielo is its Se...

Syrah leads, with the Greek Limnio for savoury depth and Merlot for flesh, aged a year in French oak and bottled without fining or filtration.

Viognier planted at Epanomi in 1993 under university supervision, and treated seriously ever since: skin contact, French oak fermentation...

Vosgros sits in a sun-trap amphitheatre on the left bank, which is why it gives a rounder, riper Chablis than most Premier Crus.

Montmains is the Premier Cru for anyone who wants tension rather than weight, and Labille leaves it almost entirely unoaked, letting 15 t...

A family grower house working eleven hectares of chalk, with three years on the lees — well beyond the minimum — behind a Pinot-led blend.

Seven years in the chalk cellars is well beyond what most vintage Champagne is given, and it shows in the gingerbread and brioche depth s...

The regional Bourgogne from a grower who also bottles Chambertin and Puligny-Montrachet, blended across plots in the Côte Chalonnaise and...

Pouilly-Fuissé is the Mâconnais at its most serious, and Lise Marie is made without any oak so the site rather than the barrel sets the tone.

Goulley went organic in 1991, among the very first in Chablis to do so, and still farms every hectare that way with minimal sulphur.

One of the last independent family houses in Champagne, and the reserve-heavy blend shows it: 40% reserve wine drawn across roughly 15 crus.

A grower's Chablis made entirely without oak, so what reaches the glass is Kimmeridgian limestone and citrus rather than barrel.

A Chablis house that built its name buying back Premier and Grand Cru land, applying the same gravity handling and steel ageing to its village wine.