Chardonnay

Valmur lies between Vaudésir and Les Clos and takes something from each: the fruit of one, the frame of the other.

Gosset blocks malolactic conversion across the range, which is why an Extra Brut here reads precise rather than austere.

Sixty-five-year-old vines in a parcel that borders Puligny, made by one of the most dependable white-wine cellars in the Côte de Beaune.

A family estate blending several of its own Kimmeridgian parcels rather than buying fruit in, which is rarer at this level of Chablis tha...

Saint-Véran gives the shape of white Burgundy in a more approachable register, and Ferrand makes it without any oak so the fruit and the ...

Village Puligny blended across more than twenty parcels, so it shows the appellation as a whole rather than one plot.

Vaulorent is the Premier Cru that behaves like a Grand Cru, sharing its slope with Les Preuses and parted from it only by a path.

A single hectare in Meursault, two hundred metres from Puligny-Montrachet, bottled under the humbler Bourgogne Côte d'Or appellation.

A monopole in the heart of Meursault, walled since the monks of Citeaux worked it in the 11th century and owned by one family alone.

Genevrières is the Meursault premier cru that gives weight without losing its line, and Bouzereau's version has both.

Village Meursault from a grower who keeps the winemaking deliberately quiet — wild yeasts, a fifth new oak, no heavy hand.

Saint-Véran borders Pouilly-Fuissé and shares much of its limestone, and Plaisance comes from plots at the foot of the appellation's best slopes.

Rully is where the Cote Chalonnaise makes white Burgundy that tastes like the Cote de Beaune without the Cote de Beaune bill, and Vauvry ...

Mâcon-Bussières rarely gets its own label, and Le Vieux Puits is a north-facing single site that holds its acidity in a warm corner of Burgundy.

White Santenay is scarce in a village that mostly makes red, and Clos des Champs Carafe is the highest walled vineyard in it.

Gingin clone, whole-bunch pressed, wild-fermented in barrel and stirred on lees for nine months with no malolactic conversion: the recipe...

No malolactic conversion and only a fifth new oak, so the barrel adds texture rather than butter and the wine stays taut and citrus-drive...

Fèvre owns more Premier and Grand Cru land in Chablis than anyone, and Montmains is where that shows without the Grand Cru price.